1. Field of the Invention
The object of the present invention is a process to color and permanently restructure hair, in which one process is carried out after the other on the same day—preferably one right after the other. It is particularly suitable for natural hair and colored hair.
In Step 1, the hair is colored using oxidation. After an action period of from 5 to 60 min (preferably 10 to 30 min), the colorant is rinsed from the hair. In Step 2, the hair is given an intermediate acidic treatment. After the action period has elapsed, the intermediate treatment agent is rinsed out (or can be left in the hair), followed by Step 3, the permanent wave process, which is carried out with the aid of a keratin-reducing agent. After an action period of 1 to 30 min, the keratin-reducing agent is rinsed out as necessary. In Step 4, the sulfuric bridges are closed after the restructuring via an agent containing peroxide. Step 5 represents the final treatment via an acidic agent (anionic/cationic).
2. Description of Related Art
The classic technique for implementing permanent hair restructuring involves a first stage in which the disulfide bonds of the hair keratin are opened with the aid of an agent containing a reducing material (restructuring agent); the hair is then changed to the desired form, and, subsequently, the disulfide bonds are linked back together again using an oxidative material (fixing agent). Sulfites, mercaptoacetic acid, thiolactic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, mercaptocarboxylic acid ester, and cysteine are used in particular as reducing materials. These agents are either acidic (sulfite, bisulfite, and mercaptocarboxylic acid ester) or alkaline (alkali and ammonium salts of mercaptocarboxylic acids). In the case of alkaline restructuring agents, the required alkalinity is obtained primarily by adding ammonia, organic amines, ammonium or alkali carbonate, and ammonium or alkali hydrogen carbonates. Liquids containing hydrogen peroxide or bromate are particularly used as fixing agents.
The permanent restructuring of human hair occurs, in general, by first separating the hair (which is washed and towel-dried) into multiple sections and then rolling these sections onto curlers. After the rolling process is finished, the curlers are thoroughly wetted down using the required quantity of the permanent restructuring agent. The curlers used for permanent waves have a diameter of about 5 to 13 millimeters (0.17 to 0.44 in), while the curlers used for straightening must have a diameter greater than 13 millimeters (0.44 in).
The amount of time the restructuring agent stays on the hair with a permanent wave is about 1 to 30 minutes depending on hair quality and the desired level of change. This action time can be shortened by adding heat via the use of a heat radiator or a hood dryer.
After the required action period for the restructuring agent has elapsed, the hair is rinsed with water and treated with a fixing agent, for example, an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide or potassium bromate. The action period of the fixing agent in this case is normally about 1 to 20 minutes. The curlers are then removed; if necessary, the hair is retreated with the fixing agent for a few minutes, and then rinsed thoroughly with water; the hair is styled and then dried.
Oftentimes, however, it is not just a restructuring of the hair that is desired, but also coloring or tinting. Up to now, the request for a color and wave treatment could only be carried out with a break in between of at least one week in order to obtain sufficient structure of the hair.
For this reason, there have already been many attempts made to enable the restructuring and coloring of hair in one work step. Thus, for example, a process is known from DE-AS 1 129 261 as well as GB-PS 876 663 that enables simultaneous permanent waving and coloring of hair, including white and gray hair. This process is based on a restructuring agent that consists of an aqueous solution of a keratin-reducing agent and a suitable basic dye. The dyes used, for example, crystal violet, methylene blue, fuchsin, or malachite green, are present in the form of stable leuco compounds and are not converted into the actual dye until the subsequent oxidative fixation.
The overview article entitled “Permanent waves and hair coloring in one work step” by R. Heilingötter, Kosmetik-Parfüm-Drogen Rundschau [Cosmetics industry journal] 3/4 (1965), Pages 35 and 36, presents the option of simultaneous tinting and restructuring of hair by adding oxidative dyes (in the form of their precursors) to an alkaline thioglycolate solution. Finally, EP-B 0 352 375 contains a process for permanently restructuring and simultaneously coloring hair in which the hair is first treated for 8 to 20 minutes with a first agent contained as keratin-reducing agents, 0.1 to 6 wt % thioglycolate, and 3 to 10 wt % cysteine as well as, as oxidative dyes, 0.01 to 4 wt % para- and/or orthophenylendiamine, 0.01 to 1 wt % resorcinol, as well as 0.01 to 1 wt % antioxidants, 0.01 to 1 wt % heavy-metal chelating agents, 0.01 to 1 wt % surfactant and alkalizing agents to create a pH of from 9.0 to 9.5; a second agent with 3 to 8 wt % hydrogen peroxide is then applied without any prior rinsing.
All of the previously described procedures for permanent restructuring and simultaneous coloring or tinting of hair, however, have the disadvantage that the targeted results are not always satisfactory.
Conventional permanent wave procedures cause, particularly with colored hair, a strong loss of color. Natural hair that has been permanently waved, loses a noticeable amount of shine and is sometimes lightened by the treatment. Hair becomes dull and listless.